7, Rue Carmes, 13200 Arles. 04 90 91 07 69.

Cost for two: 130 € (lunch). September 2007
Web www.rabanel.com

Jean-Luc Rabanel is now well established in his intimate central Arles restaurant. Fuelled by a nearby organic vegetable garden the dishes come as waves of creative tapas along with a more conventional main course such as succulent salt-crust roast Guinea Fowl with garlic. Each dish is explained in detail and there's great attention to taste, textures and of course ingredients where vegetables star. The lunch menu is excellent value plus enjoy the good service and relaxed atmosphere. Expect to pay Provence prices for wine.

21, Rue Carmes, 13200 Arles. 04 90 47 61 13.

Cost for two: 80 €. April 2008
Web www.bistro-acote.com

Jean-Luc Rabanel's bistro is next to L'Atlier where much of the preparation takes place, such as a melt in the mouth 24 hour cooked shoulder of pork with potatoes Boulangere cooked to perfection. Obviously there are short cuts, such as the biscuit like base of an otherwise excellent Pissaladiere with sardines and salad leaves, but the quality of ingredients is excellent. The bar with open kitchen area behind adds to the fun ambiance, although I'm not so convinced about the pair of large TV screens. A bonus is they open 7 days a week 9 to late and the tapas on offer make it ideal for an early evening pit stop.

Route de l'Aéroport, 30128 Garons (west of Nîmes). 04 66 70 08 99

Cost for two: 130 €. April 2004 and previous visits
Web www.michelkayser.com

The airport is a small local affair and Garons is a sleepy town but Alexandre has a refreshing garden setting with friendly and helpful staff. Here the cooking is vibrant with Provençale colours and ingredients - yes this isn't the rustic Languedoc. New in 2004 was a rebuild of the kitchen and dining room.

7 Rue de Bernis, 30000 Nîmes. 04 66 21 04 45

Cost for two: 65 €. October 2003 and April 2000

Lutz Engelmann of the Auberge du Cedre sent us to this gem of a bistro in central Nîmes. What you will find is a range of freshly prepared and keenly priced dishes and friendly staff. On the wine front expect to choose from a handful of simple regional gems. We would certainly go more often if it was nearer and I had a good report in 2007.

L'ancienne Salle de Gard, 34160 Boisseron (near Sommières). 04 67 86 60 76

Cost for two: 70 to 90 €. June 2005.

A recommendation from local Peter Hornby of the-languedoc-page brought us to sleepy Boisseron for lunch. The vaulted air conditioned dining room has character and there is also a small sun trap of a patio garden. Cooking is competent - a generous seared scallop dish and rouget with a sauce incorporating its liver were enjoyable main dishes from the 33€ menu carte. The only spoilers were a rotten raspberry in a chocolate nems dessert and the distant staff - hopefully the personalities behind the place were just temporarily absent.

27 Rue de l'Aiguillerie, 34000 Montpellier. 04 67 55 08 71

Cost for two: 120 €. Many visits
Web www.celliermorel.com

Conveniently located in the center of the old town Pierre Morel's dishes are carefully prepared along simple clean lines with good ingredients. Arguably several dishes are more complex that necessary, but this is a minor point and certainly doesn't apply to the sublime aligot. A pleasant cool cellar ambiance, lively diners and excellent staff make this an enjoyable package. Last but not least is Eric Cellier's wine list.

Domaine de Cazeneuve 34270 Lauret. 04 67 59 02 02

Cost for two: 75 €. Many visits
Web www.auberge-du-cedre.com email welcome@auberge-du-cedre.com

First the logistics. Unless you stay here you can only eat in the restaurant at weekends and bank holidays when the simple set menu is supplemented by an enticing carte. As a setting it's a fairytale - patio, views, gardens, a hidden pool. The food, served in a glorious orangerie or on the terrace, is up to date and tasty using local ingredient such as beef from the hidden valley near Saint Jean de Bueges. Local wine is a passion with matured bottles from the cream of the region at reasonable prices. By the glass aperitifs cover all styles and are not to be missed at either end of your meal. There's something to enchant everyone from gourmet to family - this is somewhere you can hide away from the outside world and dream.
Check all the details on their informative web site Auberge du Cedre.

Mas de Baumes, Off D107E east of Ferrières les Verreries. 04 66 80 88 80.

Cost for two: 150 € (à la carte). September 2006.
Web www.oustaldebaumes.com

A tip off from Lutz Engelmann of the nearby Auberge du Cedre (see above) led us to this renovated Mas and one time glass making site (Verrerie) in the middle of garrigue just north of the Pic St Loup. Local chef Eric Tapis offers sound contemporary dishes from a shortish menu using seasonal regional ingredients. He also and keeps the dishes simple, examples being an egg gateau with ceps and roast pigeon with figs. Downside? Salmon of undeclared origin as the only fish on offer and desserts that were OK but no more. Note this is also a hotel and certainly a place to get away from it all.

Les Demeures du Ranquet, Route de St Hippolyte du Fort, 30140 Tornac. 04 66 77 51 63.

Cost for two: 100 €. April 2004 + previous visits.
Web www.ranquet.com

This isolated hotel where the garrigue meets the Cevennes is hidden in Holm oaks. Their Web site is informative about their fine chef Anne Majourel as well as the pleasant hotel that seems to be comfortable yet relaxingly informal. Simple, skilful cooking using regional ingredients.

19 rte Cévennes, St Martin de Londres, 04 67 55 75 90

Cost for two: 95 €. September 2001, September 1999 + previous visits
Web www.les-muscardins.fr

The food here has improved with each visit as Thierry Rousset gains experience. Sound yet imaginative dishes, especially the desserts, from a long established family venture. The very spacious dining room unfortunately lacks atmosphere even when they're busy, something that even the charming Georges Rousset can't compensate for.
Update - I've had good feedback that all was well in 2005.

Argelliers 34380. Nr Montpellier. 04 67 55 08 71

Cost for two: 75 €. June 2006 and October 1995

This is a hard to find stone auberge in the holm oaks of limestone country. It's due south of Voils-le-Fort north west of Montpellier on the minor road D127. Food is hearty traditional country fayre and slow cooked dishes are usually featured, but vegetables are thin on the ground and deserts are clumsy. That said the French dine here and they open on Mondays.
A lunch in 2006 was highlighted by a Riz de Bétail (young cattle) with ceps, parsley and garlic accompanied by lentils.

3 bd de l’Esplanade, Gignac 34150. 04 67 57 50 83

Cost for two: 100 €. Several 2009 visits
Web www.restaurant-delauzun.com

Young local chef Matthieu de Lauzun has now realised his dream of running a restaurant following some serious cooking experience across France. The dishes are refined and befit the more urban than country feel of the tastefully refurbished dining room. Perfectly executed chicken croquettes come with carrots presented three ways. 24-hour cooked belly of pork is melt in the mouth and desserts get equal care in preparation. The cooking manages sophistication without flavours competing against each other. Our subsequent visits didn't disappoint and we've found weekday lunchtimes full with locals. The wine list offers some good value if you avoid the big names - try the elegant La Reserve d'O from nearby Arboras. The opening of the year.

St. Guiraud 34725. 04 67 96 67 96

Cost for two: Dinner 150 €. Many visits
Web Le Mimosa

Fantasise about your ideal country restaurant - simple and intelligent food using top quality ingredients that also excites, a relaxed homely atmosphere, comfortable but not grand, warm service, great value, world class niche wine list, outstanding cheese board. This is it.
Over the years since 1984 Bridget and David Pugh have created this perfection and since "discovering" it in April 1993 we have been fortunate to eat here more than anywhere else. Take the menu that offers four dishes from the carte, plus cheese (home matured and not to be missed) and the dessert trolley. The wine list is a gem for the local wines, plus growers from the Rhone and Provençe, and is a showpiece for the most exciting up and coming wine region in the world today. For 28 € David will provide you with an appropriate interesting wine for each course. For accommodation they have a super nearby hotel Ostalariá Cardabela - a traditional village building tastefully renovated.
Note that Le Mimosa is open for dinner only Tuesday to Saturday and for lunch on Sunday. They close from early October to early April - but there's always La Terrasse du Mimosa (next entry below).

23 Place de l'Horloge, 34150 Montpeyroux. 04 67 44 49 80

Cost for two: 60 € lunch, 70 € dinner. Many visits
Web La Terrasse du Mimosa

The Pugh's of Le Mimosa (above) run this wine bar and cavist by the place of Montpeyroux. Simple Mimosa touches and last minute finishing of dishes, such as dressing salads, making stock to cook rice and home made desserts, put many more expensive menus to shame. Aubrac beef from herds in the nearby Puech Séranne is superb as are the local organic pork products. A simple tapas of chicken wings simply left one craving for more. The 19 € three course lunch (Sunday's included) is the best deal on this site, as new for 2009 is joined by a four course dinner at 24 €. The finest local wines at all price points are listed and available to take away from the cave and there's always a good selection by the glass. With a fixed 8 € "doite de bouchon" this is the place to indulge in a more expensive bottle

Poujols, 34700 Soubes. 04 67 44 03 78

Cost for two: 90 €. September 2008 + many visits

The stunning view of the Larzac escarpment is the first thing that hits you. Laurent Arrazat, previously number 2 at Le Jardin de Sens in Montpellier, is now well established. Enjoy delights such as Pimentos stuffed with rilletts of fish, tarte aux pommes with caramel glace and liquorice creme anglaise. Sadly on our last visit we found the dishes somewhat tired and we sensed a restaurant and talented chef drifting rather than going places. Fair selection of the areas finest wines at all price points.
Well signposted from the A75 junction just north of Lodeve.

Hotel Le Guilhaume d'Orange, 34150 Saint Guilhem le Désert, 04 67 57 24 53

Cost for two: 55 € (lunch). September 2008 and April 2007
Web www.guilhaumedorange.com

This famous village wedged in a limestone valley is one of the big Languedoc attractions and an unlikely hunting ground for a good meal. A tip off from our wine merchants the Berry's (Languedoc specialists - see Grand Cru Wines) brought us here. Overlooking the gorges of the Herault, there are tables outside and it has an unpretentious family run atmosphere. The simple food is generally done well. Entrecote came with aubergine and, unusually for France, parsnip. The short wine list is superb value for nearby big names such as Moncalmes and Les Terrasses d’Elise.

Le Pelican Ferme Auberge, near Gignac. 04 67 57 68 92

Cost for two: 50 €. April 2001
Web Domaine de Pelican

Only open at weekends off season but worth seeking out for genuine Ferme Auberge home cooking in an appropriate setting. Chicken in leeks with a hint of Roquefort was a first rate example. Wine is made on the Domaine and certainly keeps the cost down. Check my detailed notes for directions and be aware that they close for much of September and October. Also book well ahead and note they don't respond to FAXes - this has derailed our plans to return more than once.

30 rue Révolution, Sète 34200. 04 67 18 98 72

Cost for two: 70 €. April and September 2008
Web www.restaurant-seletpoivre.com

This is just what Sete needs, a contemporary bistro with a city atmosphere well away from the tourist traps by the harbour. Run by a hands on couple who appear to do everything, Sel et Poivre is small and intimate with a good buzz. The blackboard offers a good choice up to three course menu for lunch and dinner. A second blackboard has a short but balanced wine list. Prawn brochettes with a sea urchin coral sauce and crepe wrapped vegetables was the star entrée. Fresh four cheese ravioli plus chicken breast stuffed with apricots accompanied by top notch vegetables were admirable mains. Some dishes need a little refinement, but this is a promising start and refreshingly unpretentious.

Bouzigues 34140. 04 67 78 33 23

Cost for two: 65 €. May 1997

France abounds with seaside seafood restaurants. What makes Les Jardins different, beyond fresh ingredients simply prepared, is the location by the etang and the shack of a restaurant complete with family run atmosphere. Bouzigues is a simple oyster village by the enormous Bassin de Thau and is away from the modern commercialisation of the Mediterranean coast. Les Jardins is also next door to Le Côté Bleu motel (opens on Mondays) where you get fine seafood combined with swishier service and decor, plus some more sophisticated dishes.

9 quai de la Résistance, 34340 Marseillan 04 67 77 31 67

Cost for two: 80 €. September 2006

A reader urged me to try this quayside restaurant renovated by the Pourcel brothers of the famous Jardin des Sens in Montpellier. One advantage is that it opens every day, and for a more extended season than most by the quay. A pumpkin soup with chestnut and creamed goats cheese was good, as was mackerel on a fruit and shellfish studded cous cous. For dessert a clafoutis of plum with ice cream was fine. The cooking is certainly sound and the service excellent, but sadly the wine list is somewhat pricey. A welcome alternative to the swathes of hit and miss establishments around the quay.

Vinipolis, 5 av. des Vendanges, Florensac, 04 67 77 03 05

Cost for two: 45 €. April 2009 + previous visits
Email cave.florensac@wanadoo.fr

Local chef legend Jean-Claude Fabre has helped establish this new venture in the modern building behind the local wine cooperative. Sunday lunch was packed with locals but service purred along impressively. For 19 € you get three courses that included succulent spit roast shoulder of lamb with delicious penne pasta and a sensational rice pudding with raspberries and orange. While the dishes do rely heavily on advanced preparation and it seems the catering is on a canteen scale, this was a masterclass on what can be achieved. With the co-op wine available at near cellar door prices the package is near unbeatable.

Hôtel du Golf, Île de loisirs, Cap d'Agde 34300. 04 67 26 87 18

Cost for two: 100 €. October 2008 + previous visits
Web www.hotel-du-golf.com

Our last meal here was competent hotel cooking and no more - the magic touches, such as seafood sauces, of consultant local chef legend Jean-Claude Fabre were clearly absent. We suspect Jean-Claude is no longer involved (see Bistro d'Alex above). Bavette steak with caramelised onions and a pear and rhubard crumble were good dishes but weak starters make 35 € for three courses poor value. Also in decline is the wine list - much shorted and heavily marked up.

8 avenue Louis Montagne 34120 Pézenas, 04 67 90 00 00

Cost for two: 100 € (carte). November 2008 + several visits
Email entre-pot@orange.fr

To arrive on an off-season Monday lunch to find a virtually full dining room, actually a large arched cave, rapidly fuels anticipation. A dish of duck cooked 3 ways with sticky red rice and sublime baby vegetables was a star, as was raspberry millefeuille with anis crème patisserie. Only the simple starters didn't stand out. Quality local wine list, although there is nothing in below 20 € and other mark ups are simply offensive. The sheltered outside patio at the back contrasts the cool arched main dining room. Don't be put off the unattractive, by Pézenas standards, location - L'Entre Pots is for the informed. Service has been fine recently, a pity it doesn't offer better overall value.

10 bis rue Mercière, 34120 Pézenas, 04 67 09 42 56

Cost for two: 90 €. Many Visits

Wedged between two high white stone buildings Les Palmiers, with a great al fresco atmosphere, is a strong recommendation. The food is eclectic ranging from braised rabbit with olives, through Moussaka, to Brandade of haddock with gambas. A refurbishment in 2005 brough a large modern kitchen and some interesting ironwork. A bonus is a quality short local wine list. Sadly prices have crept up somewhat although the set lunch remains a good deal. Note Palmiers only opens for dry days in summer.

6, avenue de Verdun, 34120 Pézenas, 04 67 90 13 80

Cost for two: 75 €. November 2008 and Oct 2004

Les Marronniers has a local reputation for evening tapas but at lunch there's an accomplished bistro style meal on offer. Leeks à la Catalane, rustic leek and cheese tarte, chou farci that was certainly the business and bavette steak didn't fail to please. More recently a gratin of cep ravioli had delicious pasta. The short wine list has bottles under 20€.
The bar dining area has a great atmosphere, more so since the restaurant smoking ban, aided by the charismatic patron. The outside courtyard looks equally enticing. A very handy local address.

12 place de la Croix, Hérépian (near Bedarieux) 34600. 04 67 95 06 93

Cost for two: 70 €. November 2008 + previous visits
Web www.locrerouge.fr

Set in the heart of the village L'Ocre Rouge offers a cool vaulted dining room that's the setting for the hands on cooking of Thierry Deloulay. Locally sourced ingredients, such as duck from Carlencas, are prepared with care and skill. Keep it simple may be an overworked term, but here you'll find the perfect execution. Short list of well chosen and keenly priced local wines. Much more than just a fine address in a dining out desert.

Mauroul (north of Olargues off D14) 34390.

Sold and now called L'Estaminet de Mauroul.See www.estaminetmauroul.com

Magalas, Place d'Eglise 04 67 36 20 82

Cost for two: 70 € plus. June 2009 + previous visits
Web www.o-bontemps.com

Olivier Bontemps, one of the chefs who established Octopus in Beziers (below), has completely rebuilt La Boucherie restaurant in the heart of Magalas. His flair is sound creativity with humble ingredients that maintain hints of rusticity. He is also a natural showman. A Galette de pieds en mousse de volaille was a stunning starter while Faux filet de Veau au sautoir was tender, succulent and tasty. A recent slow cooked pigeon with confit of leg and wing on a tartine of its offal had succulence and a deep flavour.
Desserts like to show off accomplished mousses and jellies and can lack balanced textures. The 8 course menu "Bontemps" is a creative delight. Several dishes are more like juxtaposed tapas that don't always complement each other. I'm confident Olivier's best will come as he develops harmonised complete dishes. The wine list has variety with several bottles under 20 €. Book well in advance, especially in season.

Berlou (near St. Chinian). 04 67 24 16 99

Cost for two: 80 €. April 2008
Web lefaitout.over-blog.com

Le Faitout overlooks the stream running through this dream of a small wine village. Every local wine, however humble, is on the wine list. From kitchen, the star billing is game dishes - a confit of leg of lièvre (hare) was mouth melting with extraordinary depth of flavour. Fillet of biche (young roe deer) was tender, perfectly cooked and balanced by a Grande Veneur sauce that included local arbouses (strawberry tree fruit) adding a hint of sourness and texture. Sadly the vegetables were misjudged, especially the overcooked and watery courgettes - this was early April. Desserts were rustic and tasty, such as a cold strawberry gratin with semolina and almonds. Service is friendly and easy going. It's good to find a relatively new establishment that's borrowed from the roots of hearty French cooking.

17 Grand Rue, 34210 Minerve. 04 68 91 14 18

Cost for two: 65 €. November 2008
Web www.relaischantovent-minerve.fr

Another suggestion from Peter Hornby of the-languedoc-page. In a deserted off-season Minerve it was a pleasant start to find a bright spacious dining room well frequented with locals. A tournedos of duck involved finely slicing and rolling the breast before cooking and made devouring it a delight. Vegetables are hotel fayre but interesting and well prepared. Brandade done 3-ways made an acceptable starter. The kitchen certainly knows its limitations and works hard while service was friendly and enthusiastic, if a little inexperienced. Good value everyday wines. Rooms (closed off season) look to offer superb value and there's a terrace overlooking the ravine. A very useful address indeed.

12 rue Boieldieu, 34500 Beziers 04 67 49 90 00

Cost for two: 110 € (lunch 62 €). April 2009 + many visits
Web www.restaurant-octopus.com

Sited just off the main promenade Allee Paul Riquet, Octopus has been delivering benchmark contemporary cooking to the region since spring 2005. A lunch in 2007, served as a surprise, was seriously accomplished. Clean tasting and carefully prepared dishes from good ingredients are the hallmark. Red mullet with its liver on toast and soupions bolognaise was a sensation, as was Riz de Veau on multi-textured artichoke.
A set lunch that includes a glass of wine and coffee is one of the best RQP bargains we know. We're even learning to love the rather souless spartan dining room, and there's a nice fine weather courtyard.

22 bvd de Verdun, 34500 Beziers (opposite le gare) 04 67 76 06 24

Cost for two: 120 €. November 2008 + previous visits

Local chef Patrick Olry has had a restaurant in Beziers for over 20 year and it's better than ever. Dishes are refined but don't loose sight of taste - thumb sized calamars with a marbled terrine that included aubergine, peppers and nuts is a simple example. Pigeon comes skewered with all its abbats and a heady game sauce. Desserts by patissier Frank Radiu have added an extra dimension. The wine list offers good value if one avoids big names. The need for the service to stick to protocol can be annoying, but it's first class and nowhere do the staff and kitchen try harder.

6 Quai des Negociants, 11200 Homps. 04 68 91 23 16

Cost for two: 70 € (dinner). September 2008 + previous visits
Web www.in-good-company.com

Right on the quay of the canal de Midi at Homps, En Bonne Companie already has a strong international following - they were virtually full on our Monday night dinner. Craig Charlesworth has cooked in the best kitchens London has to offer and it shows. Classics such as hot fois gras with lentils and lamb en crepinette are done to perfection. Lunch is a bargain. Partner Valerie Fisk ensures smooth service. More spacious patio in 2008 offers more covers. Opening is seasonal so check www.in-good-company.com first.

Route de Perpignan 11100 Narbonne 04 68 41 37 37

Cost for two: 65 €. April 2007 + previous visits
Web www.la-table-saint-crescent.com

Son Lionel has now taken over from one time two star Michelin chef Claude Giraud at this spacious dining area attached to the regional Wine syndicate. The exciting news is that Lionel has forged his own fresh style while retaining creativity for combinations.
A "risotto" made with pearls de Japon and shellfish with a ham and oyster ravioli followed by crusted slow cooked shredded pork with lentil puree and sprouting soya were two fine examples. Desserts are a high point. Simple local wines selected to accompany each course are available on most menus.Sadly some staff were going through the motions. Also avoid the rip-off coffee with daft chocolate trolley.

11600 Lastours 04 68 77 50 24

Cost for two: 130 €. April 2006
Web www.lepuitsdutresor.com

This is actually two restaurants. A 7/7 Cafe and Bistro and a gastronomique half at the front where we took Sunday lunch. Cress soup with snails in deep fried balls and Poulet Gauloise with gnocci, jus and light cream sauce were tasty dishes while others, such as Baltic salmon with asparagus and a tomato sauce, lacked the excitement one would expect from a 52 € menu. Good wine list.
Don't miss the interesting visitors centre for the famous Cathar ruins.

38 rue de Bonald, 12000 Rodez. 05 65 42 72 10

Cost for two: 90 €. June 2002, September 2001 and October 2000
Web www.goutsetcouleurs.com

This may feel no more than everything you'd expect from a moderately swish town restaurant, but where Goûts et Couleurs wins, beyond some competent and versatile cooking, is by offering a range of menus to cover all prices and moods. You can eat well here (lunch or dinner) for, say, under 75€ for two with wine or push the boat out a touch. A fine address near the centre of an interesting town.

Belcastel 12390, near Rodez 05 65 64 52 29

Cost for two: 120 €. September 2007 + many visits
Web www.hotelbelcastel.com

Belcastel is an idyllic village in a steep valley. Vieux Pont has very much a family run atmosphere and offers some inspired cooking using imaginative local and international ingredients. When you get fed up with the myriad of establishment that just don't try hard enough in France these days then come here. Their hotel 30 yards across the pack horse bridge has all mod cons and is outstanding value.

23 Rue Jean Payra, Perpignan. 04 68 35 00 90

Cost for two: 130 €. April 2008

What a pleasant experience - a reputed restaurant that exceeds expectations. Fish is the forte here and the trio of main dishes on our menu confiance delighted. Tuna and aubergine came layered and rolled with a sublime red pepper sauce. Red mullet was presented with multi-textured white asparagus and a green asparagus sauce. Finally large flaky morue (salt cod) partnered a ravioli of artichoke and smoked ham on top of silky artichoke puree. Desserts, bread and all the trimmings were equally accomplished. Service is both professional and unpretentious in the surprisingly light and airy dining room. A strong list of local white wines is another example of how well thought out everything is. Christophe Comes has been cooking here 8 years and is certainly marching towards perfection.

40 carret. Taialà - 17007 Girona, Spain +34 972 22 21 57

Cost for two: 170 € (with tasting menu) March 2003
Web www.cellercanroca.com

Inspired by El Bulli Spanish Catalonia is arguably the the most important restaurant hotbed in the world. Run by three brothers, Joan Roca in the kitchen, Jordi on the patisserie and Josep as the sommelier, El Celler Can Roca is a restrained shrine to serious cooking. For my taste some of the dishes, e.g. skate with pineapple, were a little too delicate but spring lamb and a delicious fruit dessert compensated. Some of the portion sizes are a bit too modest on the degustation menu, though that will probably be welcome in the heat of summer. Superb international wine list with everything a bargain, especially when compared to an equivalent standard in France.

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