Most modest French towns have a family run restaurant. What differentiates Jean Luc Santure's Parfumes de Garrigues is friendly enthusiasm and a chef who understands how to work with limited resources. The result was a near full main dining room on an off season Monday night.

We had the 23€ menu. A duck salad had well dressed small leaves and a swath of interesting duck bits and pieces. A creamy velouté covered broccoli, oysters and herbs. A hearty faux-fillet and pork chop both came with fresh peas, ratatouille, bashed potato and (the garrigues bit) thyme. The cheese board was worthwhile rather than a token gesture. For dessert an assiette patisserie was full of home made goodies and we also enjoyed a chocolate cake creation with chocolate glace. For wine a local Faugeres was appropriate.

There's nothing here more than honest food from a team that were leagues away from just going through the motions. Every small French town needs a place like this, but few have one.

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