L'Ocre Rouge dominates one end of the small village place. Inside the uncluttered cool vaulted dining room gives diners plenty of space. Apparently it's manned solely by Marion Deloulay out front with husband Thierry in the kitchen and this limits the number of covers. A bit advantage of this approach is that one can be sure of a totally hands on approach to the cooking, although the downside is that the dishes are designed for maximum advanced preparation.

From the 25 € menu Grenache a Pressée de volailles et foie gras au thym sauvage and Brandade de morue au cocos de Paimpol, coulis de tomates à l’huile de picholine illustrated this. Both were enjoyable although the cocos (white haricot beans) were perhaps a little dull. Magret de canard aux oranges caramélisées, rémoulade de céleri was excellent and sensibly didn't overdo the orange. Blanc de turbot étuvé à la vapeur de citronnelle, crémée de fenouil rôti fully expressed Thierry's care and skill - delicate yet plenty of taste. After an above average cheese board desserts didn't disappoint.

Like the carefully sourced ingredients the wine list is local, well chosen and very keenly priced. Overall excellent value.

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