David and Bridget Pugh of Le Mimosa said this was more or less their regular haunt when visiting Montpellier, a good enough recommendation for anyone. The dining area is under clean white stone arches that gives it a regal cellar feel, but there is also a patio courtyard for outside tables. At lunch things operate pretty efficiently, especially for those tables with business workers.

A warm up dish of salt cod with puff pastry and poppy seeds was fine. Charcuterie with salami, ham and pâte could have been more exciting while a velouté of pumpkin with bits of skate, baby peas, shelled broad beans, mushrooms and croutons was good if a bit non-pronounced. Confit de canard with a salad was an excellent example while a civet de Sanglier was attractively presented and spiked with some interesting aromatic spices. Aligot was fine, as were the seconds we were offered. A châtaigne tarte was simple and carefully made.

Our return visit found some much more elaborate cooking such as pigeon leg stuffed with herbs and abats. The wine list has broadened out considerably (no doubt due to Eric Cellier) and prices are par for establishments of this quality.

Still going strong in 2007 and more flare has been introduced but sometimes there are one or two ingredients too many that don't contribute. Lets hope that Pierre doesn't lose sight of keeping it simple.

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