The excellent regional wine and food magazine Terre des Vins brought us to the hamlet of Mauroul nestled in the spectacular chestnut wooded slopes of the Haut Languedoc. Chef Hervé Leroy apparently moved south from Normandy in 2005 and bravely landed in this remote spot. Xavier Lecas runs the dining room that leads to a superb dining terrace with a seriously magnificent panoramic view.

We went for Sunday lunch, currently the only lunchtime they open - a bit of a mystery given the long drive most diners will face. The menu admirably keeps things simple and proudly lists their (mainly local) suppliers. A fixed "tapas" starter (pictured) included crayfish soup, fois gras in bun with grated apple and a delicious black olive glace. Between us we were able to have all four of the plats. Ombre Chevalier (Arctic Char) with diced vegetables was clean and fresh. Cod with crayfish sauce and an array of vegetables including artichoke and peas delighted. Pigeon came with its leg stuffed with a heady savoury stuffing with the rest stuffed with apricot and fig. By contrast veal with aubergine was simple but lacked the quality of meat needed to see it through. Desserts were a delight - tart with chestnut ice, poached pear and prune plus cherries presented three ways.

On our return in 2007 the service problems had been fixed. The meal also delivered the dish of the year so far - squid and sea bass in a pasta dome with giroles, fresh peas, herb gnocci and stunning saucing. This is a fine contemporary restaurant and is becoming somewhere special.

Back